Hunter Angler Gardener Cook

Nothing goes as well together as wild game and juniper. Something about it transports us into the snowy woods, filled with that nervous anticipation hunters know well and which non-hunters experience most often just before opening a Christmas present. The addition of lard is especially tasty, because everything goes better with lard. I first found this recipe in the Derrydale Cook Book (1937), but this is an adaptation for modern kitchens.

1-2 venison medallions per person. Elk and moose are large, so you’ll only need one. On a small deer, you might need as many as three. They should be thick, at least 1/2 inch. An inch isn’t too thick.
4-5 tablespoons lard or butter
4 tablespoons crushed juniper
2 tablespoons cracked black pepper (use the good stuff)
1 tablespoon dried thyme
pinch of salt

1/4 cup gin (not the good stuff)
1/2 cup cream
1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries
4 tablespoons demi-glace or reduced venison or beef stock (watch that it doesn’t get too salty)

1. Salt venison medallions at least 15 minutes before you start.
2. Mix the dry spices together.
3. Smear lard/butter around the edges of the venison, then roll the edge in the spices.
4. Put the rest of the lard/butter in a pan over medium-high heat, and when it’s hot place the medallions in the pan. Shake a bit so they don’t stick, then leave them be for at least 2 minutes. Turn once, and only once. If you’d like, you can “kiss” the spice-rubbed edges to the flame to sear them off, but don’t let the spice-rubbed area burn. (It will become bitter.) Remove venison to a warm oven.
5. Off the heat, add the gin. Flame it if you’d like. Either way, let is cook down a bit then while deglazing the pan with a wooden spoon.
6. Add juniper, then cream and demi-glace. Let this cook down over medium-high heat until its consistency is like Thanksgiving gravy.
7. To serve, lay down some sauce, then top with the medallions. You can add some fresh cracked pepper at the very end if you’d like.

This dish is excellent with mashed potatoes, polenta, spaetzle or neeps-n-tatties (a mix of mashed potatoes and turnips). Need a veg? Try sauteed broccoli rabe with garlic.

More venison recipes